Our introductory day in the Blue Mountains provided us with highly detailed insight into the vast diversity of biota inhabiting this gorgeous part of the continent, courtesy of the encyclopedia-like Howard as our guide. The mountains themselves are actually uplifted plateaus with deep gorges formed by rivers, and the misty blue haze that blankets the range comes from particulates released by the myriad eucalypt trees. But, as we soon discovered, the complexity of the land doesn’t stop there.
Come Sunday, we assembled our day packs at the Eco Lodge, hopped on our charter bus, and visited the mind-boggling Jenolan Caves. Formed by a combination of tectonic and geological activity as well as a once-enormous underground river, the caves are absolutely breathtaking. Metamorphosed limestone comprises this underground labyrinth, producing tiny passages traversed, incredibly, by the original spelunkers, as well as enormous chambers dubbed “The Cathedral” and “Persia”. We were treated with a virtual concert from speakers installed in The Cathedral, although live concerts can take full advantage of the naturally excellent acoustics of the chamber. What our guide Ian fondly referred to as “decorations” are not lacking either; stalactites and stalagmites protrude from above and below, some as large as trees. In combination with the gentle dripping of water through the ceilings from the land above, crystals of calcium carbonate form delicate structures that resemble brain coral as well as stained glass.
And the craziest part about all of this? The caves are still not completely mapped out. The underground rivers are deep enough in some areas to snorkel, and in 2009 an intrepid couple discovered an entirely new section of the cave. The Jenolan Caves were first explored in the mid-nineteenth century, and nearly two centuries later we are still discovering new hidden spaces.
After exiting the deep underground and grudgingly letting our eyes re-adjust to full sunlight, we took our lunch at the nearby river called (and I am dead serious) The Long, Low, Horrible, Flat Thing. The name is very deceiving. Not only did the river offer us a cooling place to rest, a short waterfall and its rock pool below provided an opportunity to cannonball into extremely cold (or refreshing, depending on how you look at it) water. And just when we thought the day couldn’t get any better, nature presented us with a rare gift.
We saw a platypus. A real, wild platypus. To give you an idea of how incredible this was, our trip coordinator Nat, a native Australian, says that she has been actively trying to spot a wild platypus her entire life with zero success until Sunday. We must have watched it pop up for air and swim back down for at least ten minutes. And not five meters off the bank, we also had our first fatally poisonous snake sighting! Yep, we’re in Australia.
After a delicious dinner that included birthday cake at the Eco Lodge, we learned from Howard how the ecology of Australia has changed since colonization and settlement. Many species that were once soundly established across large areas of the continent are now endangered or extinct, and the list of threatened species is enormous. Much of these effects are caused by potentially climate-altering human farming practices as well as the introduction of non-native species. Although there are extensive conservatory efforts imposed in every state, it is clear that much of the character of Australia’s environment has been permanently changed since European settlement.
So, on to a cheerier topic. Our nighttime activities included a campfire and some incredible stargazing. While there are constellations that are standard to the northern hemisphere, such as Ursa Major and the northern star in Ursa Minor, the stars in the southern hemisphere form constellations that I had never seen before. The Southern Cross sits just above the horizon and twinkles in the arm of the Milky Way while the ghost of the Crab Nebula watches from an inconceivably long distance away. Looking up at a star-lit sky is one of my favorite things to do back home, and the southern hemisphere’s night sky was an entirely new playground.
After some much-needed sleep, we partook in parrot feeding Monday morning. With handfuls of sunflower seeds and just enough patience, we were able to attract the colorful birds and hand-feed them. Having a wild parrot land on your open palm is a pretty special experience, if nothing else because it gives you a close-up look at their highly dexterous beaks and how they use them to crack open sunflower seeds, get at the meat inside, and discard the shells in less than a second.
From the Eco Lodge, we then took a tight path that meandered along the face of the mountain, and slowly we descended into the gorge. While we started our hike in a dry eucalypt biome at the top of the mountains, the increasing humidity as we traveled further down gave way to wet eucalypt forests and finally a rainforest. The remarkable green that pervaded every plant reminded me a bit of Portland’s rich biota, although the abundance of archaic plants such as ferns likewise gave the valley a Jurassic Park feel. And of course, what would a hike through the bush be without another poisonous snake sighting? At one point, Nat saw a tiger snake. There was life everywhere in the rainforest, down to the last moss-covered log. Jumping across rocks to traverse the snaking river, we made our way towards a shallow waterfall that dropped off into the bottomless gorge below. The glassy water provided a cooled place to lunch as well as take in the magnificent view of the Blue Mountains. Massive walls of metamorphosed sedimentary rock reached above us, shielding the valleys from the onslaught of the Australian sun and providing a niche for such a lush array of life.
And the steep climb back up? Let’s just say it touched on a full range of emotions.
We were truly lucky to be able to experience the Blue Mountains in the way that we did. From the spectrum of life inhabiting the topsoil to the bowels of mountains, we got a first-hand look at the structures shaped by nature in a land that seems so untouched when compared to the cities we’re used to. The land is literally a testament to time and the forces of physics, and its native inhabitants are products of having to adapt to an unforgiving climate. This continent is amazing. We are all so delighted to become acquainted with it from multiple perspectives, especially when it means we get to hike a rainforest and see a live platypus.
All photos taken by Katherine Erlich unless stated otherwise.
The Jenolan Caves. The snaking pattern that can be seen on the ceiling of the Great Arch entryway was formed over eons by the relentless grinding of water.
The Jenolan Caves. The massive chamber named "The Cathedral has excellent acoustics, making it a great place to hear live concerts. This photo is courtesy of Kathryn Hart Wlodarczyk.
Parrot Feeding at the Eco Lodge. These little guys loved the sunflower seeds and seemed surprisingly comfortable around humans. This photo is courtesy of Hanah Goldov.
Hiking in the Blue Mountains. The rock formations we saw are both absolutely incredible and support the wildlife of the forest.
Hiking in the Blue Mountains. Jurassic Park, no?
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